All That Glitters - Collecting Antique Jewelry

by Helen H. Hil

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An Eisenberg original, this glorious fan brooch features
rhinestones that are hand-set in sterling silver.
Priced at $450, it dates from the 1940s.

Valentine’s Day brings to mind shopping for the perfect gift for your sweetheart, and what better choice than a piece of jewelry? Follow your instincts and you’ll find exactly the right item for her…

Jewelry has been greatly prized since the beginning of time. It has adorned royalty and commoners alike. Fabulous gems set in precious metals have been found in the tombs of the Pharaohs; and necklaces of beads and shells have turned up in the graves of Stone Age peoples. Fortunes have been spent on jewelry, which has captured the imaginations of painters, writers, and craftsmen over the ages. In an extravagant stunt, think of Cleopatra drinking a pearl dissolved in wine, or Marie Antoinette and L’Affair du Collier (Affair of the Necklace), a fabulous diamond necklace whose surrounding intrigue helped fan the flames of the French Revolution.
How about Guy de Maupassant’s The Necklace, a short story about a woman who borrowed a diamond necklace, lost it, and replaced it at great expense – only to find out after years of work to repay the debt that the original was made of paste. Can we forget all that jewelry from the films of Hollywood? A few immediately come to mind like Maria Montez’ Cobra Jewel; Cary Grant and Grace Kelly in To Catch a Thief; or Marilyn Monroe singing Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friend. Does anybody remember the story of the woman who accepted a string of natural pearls in exchange for her Fifth Avenue townhouse? Cartier’s is still located at this address. How about Benny Goodman’s hit String of Pearls? And, from more recent memory, weren’t we all moved by the coverage of Sotheby’s sale of the Duchess of Windsor’s jewels? I still want that flamingo pin on my best blazer – but unfortunately, my bid fell far short of the hammer price.
Think, too, of the enormous range of materials and styles. A trip to the jeweler can usually turn up examples in silver, gold, platinum, copper, and other metals as well as diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and gems too numerous to mention here. Semi-precious stones are plentiful, less expensive, and equally wonderful. Styles can range from the English Georgian to French Empire to dozens of Victorian movements. There are Edwardian pieces, Arts and Crafts, Egyptian Revival, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Art Moderne, and so on.

A tall order
So, when my editor phoned to ask me if I could come up with around 1,400 words on this subject, I asked myself how I would squeeze the glamour, glory, and glitter of millenniums onto these few pages. I was taught that a picture is worth a thousand words, so I offer more than 20,000 words’ worth of photos? A recent trip to Marilyn Gould’s Wilton Holiday Marketplace provided me with the perfect opportunity. I spent a pre-show hour with Merle Koblenz of Koblenz & Company Estate Jewelry, and Inness Humphreys of Inness! in the booth next door. The experience was sort of like a visit to Aladdin’s cave. Every showcase is jammed with a sensational assortment of precious metals, gemstones, and jewels from dozens of cultures over the last 200 years. There is something for every budget with a broad range of prices.
Merle’s father and grandfather were watchmakers and jewelers from Albany, so she grew up in the business. She’s been selling antique and estate jewelry for 25 years now. “Women of all ages love jewelry,” she commented as she brought out piece after piece of merchandise. She told us that there are a lot of younger more savvy buyers for estate jewelry today. In general, these collectors know what they are looking at because of the information out there. They are comfortable buying the right thing, but condition and durability are big issues for them. “Eventually, it’s all going to appreciate in value, so it’s a good bet to buy quality jewelry as a gift,” she explained. “It’s fun and wearable in the meantime. I always buy items that are both interesting and funky.” She says that a lot of men buy gifts from her. They feel comfortable knowing that they can return the gift if it’s not right, but nothing ever seems to come back.
Next door to her, Inness Humphreys offers handmade custom jewelry that is startlingly original. She makes a range of necklaces and bracelets that are very wearable and visually stunning. The brilliant colors come from assorted gemstones, vintage glass, vintage ivory, amethysts, aquamarines, fire opals, citrines, and vintage amber. Some of her pieces have a distinctly fifties look, while others are boldly modern, and still others recall the glamour of the thirties. All of her pieces juxtapose colors and shapes in marvelous combinations.
Both Merle and Inness can be found at the January 22 - 23 Pier Show and the March 18 - 19 Wilton Historical Society Show.
Merle Kkoblenz, Koblenz & Co. Estate Jewelry, PO Box 9, South Kent, CT 06785, (877) 927-0179, www.koblenzestatejewelry.com.
Inness! Inness Humphreys, PO Box 9, South Kent, CT 06785, (877) 927-0179